May 16, 2008

S2938: A Sheath that Flatters (Trend: Bold Colored Floral Dresses)

This is how I get my dose of yellow in.

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And Lulu, I know you tagged me a long time ago but I didn't see it until yesterday,, maybe too late?

Anyway

When I saw Hana, I immediately purchased it, even though this multicolored bold print was not in my comfort zone. My Instinct told me, Just get it and we will figure it out later.

When it arrived home, I was flabbergasted, this print was jaw droppingly stunning and I knew I had to find a simple pattern so the print could do all the work.

I don't do sheath dresses, I am very very cautious with straight cut and I don't care to have my arms out either,,,,, yet I chose S2938.

My First Dilemma was identifying how to insert the zipper, it didn't make since to me... so.... I emailed Tany about it. She concluded that it was a side zipper but advised me that putting an invisible side zipper on a curve (waist to hip) can be tricky to get it to lay flat so moving it to the back might be easier for me.

You know I'm not afraid to modify my patterns right? The idea seemed like a nice challenge.

But!

After my usual adjustment, sway back, etc. I decided to omit the zipper all together. With No sleeves and being custom made to my measurements it was easy to just slip it on without adding closures.

I graded out the pattern at the hip line for hip ease (I made a 14) and to give it a more A line silhouette.

And I lined it with Ivory Batiste...... the stars definitely aligned for this one...

or did it?

This is a rayon crepe and I find that the batiste is clinging to it like has been zapped with static energy. It doesn't look bad, you wouldn't notice it but I can feel it. In the future, I will try something else.
As for maniulation of the actual fabric, well, its not as slippery as a satin but it will "dance" if you donn't man handle it. It recovers from ripping out stitches "OKAY",,,, you may have to press those wholes out because I did.

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As you can see, I accessorized with black, not to tone it down but to make the dress stand out even more. I have to make the sash,,,,, but I doubt I'll ever use it, I think pulling out colors in the dress like the red for a rtw belt will look much better.

I already started to work on 05-2008-103 last night, and I had to put it down because I already have to adjust some things so it can fit better.

Apart from that, I'm sending you positive sewing vibes for the weekend in hope of posting my own Finished Garments on Sunday afternoon.

May 15, 2008

S4236: Details

I am such a GIRL

As I wrote before, I am NOT a Pink person, I love blue, but I don't know what is going on
with me right now.
I am fighting this urge though, when I picked up some knits last week,I made sure to re-establish my favorite color for my summer wardrobe, but more on this later.

Last weekend, I was shopping  on Pitkin Ave in Brooklyn and I can tell you, I was highly inspired.So many ruffle front sheer tops, full skirts, patent flats and wedges and diagonally striped pumps in nautical colors.... I kid you NOT and I had to stop myself from getting the navy and white ones.

Anyway..all I'm trying to say is that I'm loving it all, the "full" silhouettes are great for my body type.

So, more on my Skirt from yesterday's post.

Well, I already shared my inspiration for this one, I stuck to the basic construction, except for the lapped zipper, which was a first time attempt for me. I will have to improve this skill because it took a few attempts to get it where I felt it was pass-able.

I did a none yoke version which hits about 1.5 below the waistline (the pattern recommended 1 inch) but kept the top-stitching on each seam. I loved this feature because the seams get lost in the print and it helped to show up the seams a bit more than it would have without it.

Oh,, and no pockets, its not that I don't like them or can't make them, its just that they stick out on my hips and look very unflattering. This is a constant dilemma for me but at the end of the day, it doesn't really matter how much you want something to work for you, if it doesn't, you just have to go without it.

Its a simple pattern, which meant I could have fun with it. Lately I've been getting the urge to do more experimenting, there is something so exciting about altering a pattern and seeing that your alterations actually worked out and I learned so much trouble shooting to make it work.

Before I show a couple of photos, I want to also note that I lined the skirt with 100% polyester,,, now, I will allow you to cringe for a few seconds and come back to me...........

I was in Joanns looking for some white Batiste and they didn't have any... in fact, I picked up the bolt of Poly,,,, breathe,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,okay,, and it felt good, very soft so I just got it.

LOL

I'm sure you've seen those movies that feature the white angel on one side and the red devil on the other shoulder acting at the actors conscience.... well, I had that moment when I tried to talk myself out of it because it wasn't cotton,, hmm, a natural fiber. I'm I brainwashed?

Gosh that is a whole other post by itself.

Front View

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Close Up

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Lapped zipper

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Pink grosgrain stay at waistline

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Rose brought up the concept of just wearing a slip under the skirt instead of lining it..... that makes a lot of sense seeing that I plan to do more than one, however, I must truthfully say, I chalk up my insistence on having my skirts lined, to vanity.... I want my skirt to look as RTW as possible even though,, chances are, no one will ever see the darn lining. Even though a slip would work just the same.

The Lining

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is serged at the edges, this is due to 100% laziness..... plain and simple. Of course, I could have spent the extra time making a machine hem but the serger looked much more appealing at the time. I actually love how it looks like this.

Well, enough rambling

Tomorrow I will post photos of my S2938, I finished yesterday and took some photos to post. I figure it will be a great way to start the weekend by showing another FO. I can hardly wait to show it to you.. can't wait.

more later.

May 14, 2008

S4236 & Bwof 05-2008-103: Getting back in gear

You know what?

It just dawned on me today that was away from my sewing machine for a few days and I didn't oil it before I left, now that is hind sight for you, why didn't I think to do that?

So what do we have now

Well, getting back into the groove of sewing didn't take that much time, in fact I got a shot of insomnia Monday night so I cut out and sewed up most of:

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View C

I used Bougainvillea which was absolutely a pleasure to sew. I modified the pattern to have 8 panels instead of two pieces, I added a free hanging lining with french tacks and stayed the waistline using some hot pink grosgrain ribbon lol

Do you care to see it? Its really simple but its my latest FO

My obsession for this whole full/swing skirt thing started a little while back when I saw this:

Ann Taylor Skirt

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Cost 88 dollars, which reminded me why I started to sew anyway. I wanted to be able to make skirts for work plus this price is a little up there. At least its lined.... at least.

Anyway, I plan to make another one using the Daisy Mae Pique and another with a black and white print I picked up last Friday. They will all work with my next project

Bwof 05/2008/103

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In a medium weight white jersey, I read a review to it on PR and I am definitely going to add some length and grade out the lower portion a bit to compensate for my hips.

Lets hope it goes smoothly.

Its about 4 am and I'm about to trace it out before I get ready for work....

May 12, 2008

Embellishments and Accessories

SHE SAID, "Dad, the only thing I need right now is a trench coat and some galoshes, this weather is beyond ridiculous.... "

So.... hopefully you spent a great mother's day if that pertains to you, I'm not a mommy but I had a fabulous mother's day regardless.

Sorry, No complete 2938, I dropped everything and went up to NY to spent time with my Dad for his birthday last week, so I got no sewing done.

Friday I was in Manhattan getting some things done and I made my way into M&J trimming on 6th Ave. I swore UP and DOWN that I would go the last time I was in the city but we just didn't have time to have fun, this time, I was like, we have to stop because I HAVE to pick up some things.

It was like a ghost town, which was great for me because I got a lot of attention to get what I wanted.

I will share a couple of my LOOT with you

I got these for S2896, view C, the jacket, I am going to do it in a white pique.

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they are 1.25 inches, a little bit of a splurge but I had to get them,, it was a MUST.

My inspiration is

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I got this image a while before simplicity released there new patterns so after much deliberation I decided to pick it up. I decided against covered buttons from the jumpoff and when I saw those buttons I was sold.

Remember this

well I got some loops that can work

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I decided to take the traditional route with the buttons and go with these

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instead of the gold ones, especially seeing that I want to do gold and white for the other simplicity jacket.

I got a couple other things but more on that later.

Another thing about M&J Trimming is that all there safari themed embellishments like bone, wood, tigers eye, etc. is housed in one location, so it is very easy to just pic what you want for your safari themed outfits for this summer, lol

okay next thing

I picked up these in Downtown Brooklyn a while back

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its like this

If I had to take one pair of sandals on a trip to work with everything for 5 days.....it would be this one. I wore it with my Mccalls shirt to my boss's pool party and my bwof dress to the mall.

And talking about wearing "the work", I also wore my tunic on Saturday, Dad, aunt, cousin and I went shoe shopping (I decided to leave it plain after all the advice I got on it,, I will post a photo soon) and I wore my vogue DK dress on Saturday night for a Mother's Day concert at Brooklyn College.

Tee hee!

All the weekends of sewing in the winter is finally paying off

more soon!

May 07, 2008

Fabric Love: Pique in spring/summer prints

I am feeling a little Lilly Pulitzer-ish or maybe its Sara Campbell I am channelling, whatever it is, these pieces are pulling at my preppy heartstrings.

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All I need now is a fresh new white Cardigan, lol

Just wanted to poke my head in really quick because I will not be posting until Monday and hopefully that will be my 2963 FO,,, fingers crossed okay

Have a great weekend!

toy

May 04, 2008

M5522 Modified A, S2925 Progress & Fabric Love

Its an Overcast Sunday Morning on the outskirts of Philly today.

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I really didn't get much done in sewing last week but I did finish two things. The first was S2925 which I will review later because I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do with the pockets, as you can see,,, very bland...... so more on this later. Its on my dress form, hopefully it will come to me soon.

Next thing

I made a quick View A of the M5522. I was messing around with the pattern at lunch one day just because I was bored and it looked like something that I can do so I pulled out a piece of light blue cotton which I had stashed for a shirt,,,, a work wardrobe basic that I didn't sew until now.

so here are some photos first

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close up

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side view

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lower back view

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Likes and Mods

Well, I love the mandarin collar, not quite a full collar but not a round neck, I still get that V neckline going on that really works for me. I wanted the puff sleeves version, part of it was due to my curiosity with the construction, I thought it had a band but its actually a double sleeve concept, the bottom being a "stay" to give it structure.

This I found to be utilized in a lot of high end designer garments and I was really pleased to see it used for a simple shirt like this.

The mods were easy, I made a 1.5 inch band by eliminating this measurement from the lower pieces and just adding that 5/8 inch SA,, basic stuff.

The back has a little surprise, stitched down pin-tucks which I went backward and foreword in how I was actually going to do it, first I thought maybe just do it half way, but I wanted it to look as if it wasn't even there. Going back to the whole illusion thing where you have to really look to see,, "oh, it has something on there"...... makes for good conversation right?

And its not perfect, I can even tell you that the 2nd buttonhole is a little off, if I really wanted to start pointing out all the imperfections... it will work though because I really am happy with the over all look of it.

and Last but not least,,, some Fabric LOVE

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I know I say it all the time, but IS ABSOLUTELY STUNNING, and its not so much the print but the colors will make the people over at Pantone very happy. Is a rayon crepe that feels so good. I am thinking, something simple that I can have for all time and maybe that simple fix will be S2938 view A or maybe not we will see I need a simple project for this week.

so more later....

April 30, 2008

S2925: Going Forward and inspirational details

No wine today, I'm much more focused now, so with tea in hand, lets get down to business shall we?

First up, some photos I downloaded for my inspirational binder.

Theroy

Milly and Theory, two brands that are growing on me.

Next the progress on S2925

Muslin making is not exactly,, fun, but one thing that is true and makes them worth the time is that they provide the foresight of making your garment that may have been the dreaded hindsight of an unwearable or less-loved item.
My discovery is that I am not going to make the dress
I have changed my mind again, I am going to make View C,, the tunic.
Why...
well, the more I looked at the fabric itself I wanted it to be more versatile, I thought, how can I get the most wear out of this beautiful piece of fabric,,, Dress did not come to mind but that wasn't the main reason.
When I made the muslin, it didn't drape as how I would want a dress to drape for this style and I knew the fabric wouldn't fulfill the quota for this one...

On the pattern envelope, they mentioned Matte Jersey,,,, yes, a knit, challis and other much more suitable fabrics for the job and I now know why.
I think I "will" my fabric to be things they are not meant to be... I prefer the reality check to come before I cut the fabric and not after.
I did an FBA
which I find revolutionary because its the first time I did one.
I'm not sure if it worked out exactly how it is suppose to work out but I definately have the ease in the bust area that was not there before and the upper back is still the same.....
I am absolutely terrified but I'm going forward with it.

I found that after the second muslin was made the front was pulling the back, so i need to adjust the back at the hips to add more ease to match up with the front.
after the sway back adjustments, the dart on the back, looked a little,,,, well not right at all,,,, but I'll work it out.
I did a minor adjustment to add ease to the raglan sleeves, I needed more ease for the elastic gathers to occur without pulling the width and making it to snug on my arms.
and that is the round up for the second muslin, I still have some minor adjustments for the hip area but don't need to do a third attempt for that.

I really don't know what I'm going to do with the pockets, they are so,,,, bland. maybe some peacoat style big buttons?

Anyway

so,,, here we go and I will try to post another update as I find and work out the kinks,,,, as usual.

April 27, 2008

M5522 and S2925 first draft

So this is how it went down this weekend. When I wasn't cleaning and running around doing errands and back and forth from the laundry, I was sewing muslins, OMG, I can totally have a bitch fit right now but I'm not going there,,, mind my vocabulary.

Something Positive first.

I wasn't going to post this but I need to think happy thoughts right now, this shirt pattern is awesome.

I got it last year but when Pirouette post the ones she made it reminded me of it. I was in Banana Republic and notice that they had some white shirts made out of Pima cotton, so soft,,,,,, so EXPENSIVE, I honestly was going to slam down the CC for the shirt because the texture was unbelievable. I almost did it, but something told me to wait.

Now,,, just for the record, that little voice that tells me NOT TO BUY something, is Always on vacation, so I really don't know what happened there but all I can say is Thank you Jesus, but a week later I found some Pima cotton (97% cotton/3% Lycra) for my shirt.

No Mods.............................................. yeah,, I know, I know, for me that is just outstanding.

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I have two things in mind for it, a Capri pant, made out of that fabric that looks like black or dark Grey depending on how you look at it and a high waisted black skirt to wear tomorrow,  I am still pondering this.

Next thing

S2925 Muslin.

After much deliberation, I decided to make View C with View A length. After I worked on my skirt muslin for like 3 hours, I figure I needed to something more rewarding.

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Well.... at least that was the plan. Do you see all those markings on the side?

Lets see:

Made size 14

Neckline is good

Upper back is good

Needs an FBA (full bust adjustment)

Need more width for raglan sleeves to tight on upper arm

1 inch sway back adjustment

2 inches of ease on hip line,,, could work but need more wiggle room

hence why my feet are in my foot spa and I am sipping wine and venting on my blog.

hmmmm,  more later!

April 25, 2008

Project Update and Fabric Love

WOW,,,, what a month, you know I didn't even realized that I would be so content to sew just from my collection and in ode to my NO buying knits diet I will show some fabric love because it heals all wounds, lol.

Okay, as for a Progress Update since we are nearing the end of April.

M5378: I cut out the muslin for this a few weeks ago and started working on it, but I got a little unmotivated,,,, which maybe due to the fact that I haven't figured out what I'm going to do for buttons,,,, or thread color for the fabric. This is NOT good, this means that if I don't figure it out soon, it will remain in the stash for a long long time. So desperate time calls for desperate measures. I'm sending it out to a swatching service, so more on this later.

04-2008-116: Muslin is cut out and ready to go, if I have a shred of time next week, I will be dealing with this.

M5522: Almost finished. I made view B and I'm already planning on making View A in a navy blue and white stripe cotton. I'm still contemplating whether or not I should post it, I mean, its beyond simple.

M5591: This weekend's project... oh yes, there will be a muslin involved. I'm using the tan and off white dot from this post.

Dilemma: My waist to hip ratio,,, is off the chain and this is why I rarely mess with bottoms at all. I will be checking for wear the waist rest, the ease on the hip, the height of the waistband ( I foresee taking it about 2  inches, I can't stand a small waistband, it totally disappears on me) it may not look thin on the pattern envelope but you never know until you try it right?
I'm doing a combo of A and B,, which shouldn't come as a surprise you know how I do it, lol
I like the pleat design of A but not the band on the bottom,,, I mean, I like it but not for this skirt, and I want the loops to pull the tie band through.
I contemplated lining it with some batiste but decided against it, the cotton/spandex I am using have a good weight especially after I washed it.

So we will see how it plays out. If it doesn't work out at least I didn't waste my fabric.

Okay,,,, Fabric Love time

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If less was more in regards to my stash, this would definitely hit the spot for a while.
Blue is my favorite color and this is absolutely STUNNING.
It is betrothed to 2925 View B, even though we are currently conducting an elicit affair, lol

Gosh,,, I am tickled!

so maybe a completed project or two next time we meet.....

more later

April 20, 2008

B5173: A dress for Guinevere

SHE SAID. "I feel like to be completely honest, I should start all my pattern reviews with the acronym, IMHO.
As in, IMHO this pattern gave me so much trouble to decipher or the fabric was so hard to manipulate, or for the love of all things good, it just won't fit right and I'm about to tell you how it didn't work until it finally worked... out for me.
I should note, that this is just my experience and a lot of it can be due to inexperience or maybe stress and other external factors,,,, this may not be your experience and if you are ready to except that and forgive me, read on.....but what I do instead is just write about my experience,,,,, and then take as much photos displaying, what you can have, if you are willing to try, to take the good and leave the bad and prevail, just as I did, and just as more will do."

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Something about this neckline reminds me of medieval clothing, maybe the neckline and the gathers,,, something.

Anyway....

It was an easy sew,, up to the part of putting on the neck facing.

I made View B

Mods:

I went up a size (14 bust 36) actual bust size is 37.5. I cut out a size 12 for the muslin, I usually cut out that size because butterick patterns measurements are not true to size on me. But this was to small, not at the shoulder and neckline but the bust area.

Using the french curve, I scooped in to give the waistline shaping and back out to meet the hips, I also added a few inches for the hip line. with the extra fabric added, I didn't have to lower the armsyc after all, it just needed more ease to lay where it needed too.

I cut the muslin back pieces in half and used it as my pattern to make the sway back and center back adjustments. As you can see, I use light color fabric for my muslins so I can use the marker to write instructions on it, just in case I want to come back to the muslin much later I can see all the adjustments right on the pattern.

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The neckline was a little challenging, I already knew it would be so, I had already thought about how it would protrude away from the body if I didn't figure out a way to do it right.

So even though the pattern said to gather the neckline all the away from the bottom to the last point at the top, I smooth out the gathers of the lower portion always to non existence,, very loose so the bulk will not be focus on there, and I made the gathers at the upper area more intense,,, does that makes sense.

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I wished the pattern had recommended that,, because it would have saved me some time trying to figure out what to do with it, the back facing I had to hand stitched down at the back of the peak.

Oh,, almost forgot

The major mod. was to change the back neckline from a V and to round neck. I love a V neck for the front but I really didn't like it for both, so I used my back pattern from my S3775 dress and just tweaked it a little so it will match up with the front neckline. I used a bias strip to finish the neckline of the back piece in the same color of the main dress so the contrast color of the neckline will stand out more.

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I should have added another inch of length to the dress overall.

I also made to bands to spice it up a bit, they will not be pulled tight for shaping but just loosely hanging on the side with a knot to secure it.

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I think it came out great

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back view

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Conclusion: Love it, but the pattern is in the trash, no need to make another one,, well...except for the sleeve, i always keep my sleeves.

be well!