The Perfect Fit
The Promise: An illustration saturated tutorial book, which shows you easy, practical methods of achieving good fit when working with commerical patterns using a four step method; analyse, measure, adjust and fine tune.
So, pretty much like every Fit book you have ever read or owned.
It begins with the basics of good fit, discussing how figures varies, how patterns are sized and then it goes into the Ten areas of Fit.
Neckline, Shoulder seams, sleeves, sleeve hems, bust shaping, bodice back, waistline seam, back darts, seat and hemline.
Breaking down the Pattern as a fitting tool, which is always great for beginners, which talks about things like the finishing garment measurements and markings etc.
A list and description of fitting tools and a great photo to illustrate what you will be looking for.
Analyzing your Figure
Just like Fit for real People, it supports the concept of making a full size body map to analyze your figure and breaks it done so you can understand how your figure will relate to a certain type of pattern,, for example, how to establish whether or not you have a high waistline vs an average one, or if you have sloping shoulders….. I’ve always found this to be daunting, I know it can be good but there is something very unsettling about me seeing the width of my body on paper, lol… maybe one day I will try it.
I found this chapter really interesting because they showed real photos of different parts of the body (see below) and they talked about the ways to balance out your problem areas. For example, if you have a full thigh like I do,, very hippy,,, you should lean towards full cut trousers that hang straight from hip to floor, wear bias cut skirts that flare from the hips etc. There is also a note about the common pattern adjustment that is associated with this area of your body.
Measure
A really simple, easy way to take all your key measurements and compare them to your pattern.
Adjusting your Pattern
This is the bulk of the book as you may guess. The divide the adjusting method into two, the minor adjustment method and the major adjustment method.
Minor for inseam, quick adjustments and Major (the cut and slide method).
I will list all the adjustments given in the book
How to shorten a pattern
How to lengthen a pattern
How to shorten Patterns for Half-sizes and Petites
How to Shorten, Lengthen and Convert Darts
Where to Add Wider seam Allowances for Fitting
How to determine Pattern Adjustments
Sloping, Square, Narrow, Broad, Forward Thrust Shoulder Adjustments
Shoulder Adjustments for Sleeves Cut into a bodice to include your raglans and Yokes
Neckline to high or Low, wide or Narrow
How to Adjust Facings
How to Determine Collar Adjustments
What a High, low and Full bust look like (good fit vs bad)
How to Raise, Lower and Enlargen a Dart for the bustline
How to Add a Bust Dart
How to fix a Gaping Armhole
A Small bust adjustment
How to Eliminate a bust dart
Princess Seams (full bust, small bust, low and high)
How to determine if a back adjustment is needed
Narrow, Broad, Rounded, and Extremely High Rounded Back.
How to determine your sleeve measurements
Full and then Upper sleeve Adjustment
Sleeve Length Adjustment.. ( I used these methods this weekend for my tees)
Small and Large waist Adjustment
Prominent and Flat Abdomen
Sway back
Adjusting Waistband, facing and Bodice
Waistline and Hip adjustment on Gored skirts
Full and small Hip adjustment
One High hip adjustment
Shorten or Lengthen the Crotch Depth
Full abdomen and swap back for pants
Full and Flat seat adjustments
Full thigh, Full inner and outer thigh
the last Chapter is fine tuning,, adjust pleats to your body measurements, fitting with shoulder pads, scooping out a pants crotch, set in sleeves and dolman sleeves.
There is a little write up in the back about how to use the design features in your garments as a illusion,, as in, to make you look slimmer or taller or whatever the case may be.
In conclusion.....
I like it, the photos are worth the book. The photos clearly illustrated with the directions are saying and that makes this book very user friendly. I recommend checking it out at your local books store or library.
Okay,,, parting shot.
These are my two jersey pieces for my New Look Pattern
more later!
