Life happens Be Positive

McCall didn't disappoint....

I know some of you are sewing pattern connoisseurs, that is you like the creme de la creme of patterns...... oh boy, I know there are huge grins out there right now.

Me?

Well I like to see the pattern companies showcasing the trends on the runway in their collections on all levels of difficulty from the simple 4-8 hour (from cut to stitch) patterns to the complex ones that takes a few weeks to perfect. I do lean towards the more easy ones because I love instant gratification.

Butterick didn't disappoint and Mccall didn't either.

M5746

 

What not to love, its simple and classic, but that doesn't mean that I don't have concerns about this pattern. On the technical drawing, is that a seam in the front bodice of the dress and why is that needed? Even more interesting, what is the reason for that type of back slit style zipper, is that one of those exposed zipper type things? hmmmm, I guess I will find out.

M5751

 

Even though this has a vintage appeal and BWOF did a version also, I still don't get it, this is such a recipe for disaster if you have the wrong fabric (please step away from the 2$ satin), fitting issues and the BOW, goodness help me if they didn't stick a bow on there, if anyone makes this with the bow, please let me know, I am dying to see this sewn up right.

M5752

 

I guess the question should be, who is NOT making this dress or better yet, who is planning on making a short and long version. This is genius, and you know it will be coming to a post near you and soon as I can get hold of it. The ruching on the waist, wrap, shawl style collar, A line skirt, come on people, come on. Doesn't it just scream TOYA,, yes, I can hear it.

You already know I love 5754, wow, I felt like they made this one just for me because I lusted after the See by Chloe top that much, I must have willed it to materialized into the Mccall collection.

M5756

I have to say, I like View C even though I am will not put the beads on it, I think you can do it in a nice sweater knit and use a belt with it and it will look so fabulous, its like a good basic cardigan pattern and I love the fact that it has shaping.

M5759

 

Ohhh, I absolutely love this, View C, loveeeeeeee. This neckline is IN, is IT, I love it. Now, I may never ever sew it but I will have it and in a moment of lust I can always reach for it and know that I have it and that is all that matters.

M5764

The Cape....

I was really excited that Mccall did a cape because BWOF did a cape and its definitely one of the trends for winter but I am not going to get it, I don't think I will make it and its not really a priority to have one yet....... I just love it though, how cute it that.

Now there is a reason why I chose to show the technical drawing and not the picture, this is because I have a hard time believing that they can't find better fabric for their samples for the photoshoot

Exibit A: M5762

 

Tell me, would you seriously,,, seriously use that fabric to make View A? Even the model looks like she is sympathizing with us to see past the fabric. Granted this Jacket has a lot of design features going but can you see past the fabric choice,, sheesh!!!

Heavens to Betsy people, I just don't know.

I think some retailers would give them better fabric if they could get some type of name plug, anything will be better than this.

Rant over

As for sewing, I finished another B5247, this is such an addictive pattern, do not start because you will be pulling out all the knits in your stash to make dozens of them I made this one a little longer under the knee this time and hopefully I will get Devin to take a photo of me in it on Monday morning if he doesn't have to leave before I do and let me know what you think about the new patterns too, its all good.

 

Back to my sewing!

EOM Port Essoauria: V7937 Pencil Skirt

Hmm, I know what you are thinking...."I thought you totally threw your EOM collection away with all those knit dresses you have been making..."

Ahhh,, not quite so.

In fact, a little break is good, it keeps the mojo going, NO?

I made M5522, I did so with the intention of also making the skirt to wear with it and that is why I never posted a photo of me in it, because its mate was not ready yet.

 

Initially, I was not planning on making A.

I wanted to do view C but I decided to do a muslin of A and I had to a lot tucking and clipping to make it fit on my waist and hip right. While my mom was here she helped me fit it but I couldn't finish it because my sewing machine got sick.

The Fabric I got from Metro Textiles, its soft and used the London pretreating method to shrink it. I hope you can see the back its really had to see it in this color fabric.

I am going to make view C but in a grey wool,,,, maybe in a couple of weeks. This was a quick sew project once I got the fit down right.

 

In other news.....I spent Labor day cutting patterns and fabric so I have a lot of things on my to do list as usual.

 

Monday I wore B5242 but my dh was MIA for photos, so I will have to pics of that the next time around.

 

As for the new Mccalls patterns, I will definitely make time to put in my two cents about that later but as for now,,,,

   

The top is See by Chloe and if I can get my hands on some silk charmeuse, its over...

more later.

 

EOM Gnaoua MFes: M5661 & S4236

He said, "an individual can improve her style, but it is better to be born with it"

Karl Lagerfeld

hmmm, maybe so, maybe not....

Are you ready?

Fastforward to Phase 2, as I talked about previously, GMfes is all about going out on the town, a step up above jeans and tees.

I had to include looks for "later events" but my lifestyle right now doesn't require anything too formal, so my dilemma in finding something that can be dressed up and dressed down had to be solved.

I figure I can wear the skirt with a white shirt to work, or the top with some tan pants or whatever.. so many possibilities, don't even get me started.

S4236

Revisited, this time I added a yoke which I self drafted, once you have sewn a few skirts, a yoke is ridiculously easy to make with your waist measurements and totally winging it, trust me.

The piping was a first time for me and I did it with a regular zipper foot, surprisingly easy. Remember my inspiration for this skirt?

I stopped in Ann taylor to check it out, looked simple enough so I knew what I had to do to get the look.

To mimic the topstitching I used a twin needle, the seams are in between the twin needle stitching, looks pretty cool and it was super quick without using an edge stitching foot.

The invisible zipper is on the side.

M5661

Previous photos here

Well, I knew this was going to be a special project when the fabric came.

I got it from Waechter's Silk Shop,,, such good quality and great presentation.

After the Muslin was made I had to add the FBA (1/2 inch) and shorten the blouse.

Now this is where I must say.. clearly I don't make a muslin for everything but I had an instinct about this blouse and thank goodness I did, because I would have never known I had to "shorten" it, I have never shorten any of my patterns and as Belinda pointed out, I should be because I have a short torso,,,,, okay,,, I have a short torso?

So,, you mean to tell me all this time I never realized I have a short torso area,, sheesh, oh well, what is done is done, moving forward i will take this into consideration.

This pattern was very helpful, once I figured out what was wrong I could look at the pattern and know exactly where to add (FBA and hip) and where to take away (sway back and length). The instructions are awesome for construction and it was very easy to adjust for the zipper (fold in the placket and add seam allowance for the zipper.

Oh the sleeves, can't forget this.

You know I always talk about adjusting my sleeves, these fit just right, which leads me to believe that it may be bigger on a person that use there sleeves straight out of the pattern,, hint, hint.

and let me tell you,, if you ever want to work on your patience skills,, wash silk cotton,,,, then iron it, this piece has much more silk than cotton in it and boy..... did it wrinkle something fierce.

If you don't say a bad word or two, you are NOT normal, lol

I know the back photo doesn't really show the fit of the blouse because its tucked in, but it fit well, I will post a better photo of just the blouse in the back later.

Hey Tany,, guess what I got?

My dh must have picked it up because it was on my ironing board when I got home this afternoon..... this is going to join me on the couch in a few, How fabulous are you?

Very

and I have to hook you up girl,,, soon!

Enough,, is enough

you know there is always more.

EOM Gnaoua MFes: M5661

Its been a uber productive weekend. I finished my Phase 2 and now I can relax and take another couch vacation for a couple of days.

No sneak peeks this time, this post is fully loaded.

review will follow with photos of me wearing it.

If I sew this week, I will be tackling the muslins for Phase 3. It has 4 garments, but 2 needs to be fitted correctly and I need to do a run through with another one to make sure I know how to sew it before I mess up the fabric.

you know how it goes.....more later.

Breaking up the Monotony....

of sewing my M5661

 

everyone!

Look what I got

I picked up some red cotton/spandex with matching buttons for the Encore presentation of my BFJ.

I think I want to use the triangle buttonholes for it this time. This will be my vacation project. My mom is coming next week Friday from Trinidad for a month. She will be in NY most of the time, but I'm going down on the first week of August to do some final merchandise shopping with her, a little sightseeing and of course, Fabric shopping.

On the subject of Fabric shopping,

You won't believe I haven't thought about what I will sew during the fall to winter season. I was looking at some of the collections on style.com, but the only thing that spoke to me what the colors. So, hopefully, went we hit the streets of NYC I will get inspired by something.

As for now, at Joann's Mccall/vogue sale yesterday I picked up 2 jacket patterns from their Latest Line.

M5715 should not come as a surprise to you,, for me. It looks like the fall version of B5223 just with a 3/4 sleeves and more back details like the yoke and pleats. As of right now, I am leaning towards A and thinking of doing the skirt too.

M5711... OMG, I froze, eyes locked to the screen when I saw this jacket,,, Goodness help me, I have to have one, and I promise you if I don't make it, I will find one that looks just like it for Fall.... Oh, I need this in my life,,, I mean closet, lol.

Other considerations in M5701 because even though it is a sack, the lines of View A is giving the illusion of shaping and I love the back detail and I'm liking that a lot.

M5718, Gosh, I will love to see sewn up but it's not for me, because, it will give me a turtle effect,, no neck, my round face just sitting on top of that collar and the way all the fabric sets on the shoulders,, that bulk will not do at all.. woo hoo, not going there.

Okay enough of that

Progress report....

As I said, I am working on my M5661 right now, adjustments has been made, and once it is done, I will try to get some photos of me in it, hopefully by next weekend. I had a lot of bias binding work for the inner seams, I made them myself, 

finally broke down and got a 1/2 inch bias binder maker to experiment with.

I can't say I am loving the process, its kind of tedious.... honestly and hopefully I will get into it as my skill improves.

I plan to have it done my tomorrow for the latest and go straight into my BWOF 05-2008-121. I know once my mom gets here, the sewing will come to a crashing halt so I am planning ahead of the game. Plus once this is done, I can go ahead and post Phase 3..... And the photos will just flow as I wear the clothes.

Oh,, always more ladies, always more.

M5561: The Perfect Fit top Part 1

This week has been a fabulous week for fantasy sewing. I curled up next to the air conditioner with my blanket, magazines and cereal bowl but sadly, the show must go on.

You see, what happened previously to the cereal bowl vacation on my couch was......

on Sunday I decided to make a muslin for M5561, as you may have recalled, this is going to be part of my Phase 2 plans EOM Gnoaua MFes.

I only planned to make four things because I knew I would have to do a muslin for this blouse because:

1. I wanted to omit the back buttons and just do an invisible zipper

2. I know it's a semi fitted pattern and that is always a problem for my sway back adjustment.

3. I needed to make sure I needed an FBA, its so weird, sometimes I can get away with it and then other times,, not.

In all the patterns that Mccalls released in their last collection, this one was the only one I got because of the concept of "the perfect fit".

Now the instruction sheet itself it's like a mini fitting booklet

There is a diagram for how to take your high bust measurement

Tissue fitting

Adjusting for full hips, Full bust adjustment (FBA),, yes, full instructions.

High round back and Forward shoulder

Sleeve adjustments for view C and E.

so, even if you don't make the pattern, the instructions is kinda worth the 1.99 or 99 cents I guess.

Okay,,, In the next few photos I will show you what's going on with a few of the pieces I will be using for view E.

so this is the front piece,, as you can see the FBA main marks are there, you will jut have to figure out how much you need and adjust accordingly

Next, this is the back facing, and they have (HRB & VRB) High and very Round back adjustment and vertically there is a narrow back adjustment line also.

 

The back piece also has the same have the alterations

and my favorite part, the sway back adjustment lines and  narrow and broad back lines.

and the only reason why I am showing you all this is because I thought it would be good for someone who may think they need to do some fitting on there garments, get to know themselves better, lol... but don't know where to start,, you know,,, where do you put the marks for a sway back adjustment, type of thing.

and course you know I have to play with it, because I do have a few issues myself.

Here is the first muslin

Front

well, I am going to do an FBA,, just 1/2 inch because this looks tighter than the pattern photo, I will have to add some more ease below the waist because it is also a little snug there too.

the Back

 

hmmm

that horizontal line you are seeing, is after I made like a 1.5 inch swap back adjustment, which is more than I have ever done so,, that is already a problem. The other problem is those diagonal lines. What in the world? The Upper back seems to have some excess fabric also, not much but still visible.

I posted it on PR and this is what was recommended, you can read it here.

so this is where I am at, and now I am about to get off here and go modify this pattern and work on Muslin number two so hopefully I can work out some of the kinks,,,,

more later!

M5522 Modified A, S2925 Progress & Fabric Love

Its an Overcast Sunday Morning on the outskirts of Philly today.

I really didn't get much done in sewing last week but I did finish two things. The first was S2925 which I will review later because I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do with the pockets, as you can see,,, very bland...... so more on this later. Its on my dress form, hopefully it will come to me soon.

Next thing

I made a quick View A of the M5522. I was messing around with the pattern at lunch one day just because I was bored and it looked like something that I can do so I pulled out a piece of light blue cotton which I had stashed for a shirt,,,, a work wardrobe basic that I didn't sew until now.

so here are some photos first

close up

side view

 

lower back view

Likes and Mods

Well, I love the mandarin collar, not quite a full collar but not a round neck, I still get that V neckline going on that really works for me. I wanted the puff sleeves version, part of it was due to my curiosity with the construction, I thought it had a band but its actually a double sleeve concept, the bottom being a "stay" to give it structure.

This I found to be utilized in a lot of high end designer garments and I was really pleased to see it used for a simple shirt like this.

The mods were easy, I made a 1.5 inch band by eliminating this measurement from the lower pieces and just adding that 5/8 inch SA,, basic stuff.

The back has a little surprise, stitched down pin-tucks which I went backward and foreword in how I was actually going to do it, first I thought maybe just do it half way, but I wanted it to look as if it wasn't even there. Going back to the whole illusion thing where you have to really look to see,, "oh, it has something on there"...... makes for good conversation right?

And its not perfect, I can even tell you that the 2nd buttonhole is a little off, if I really wanted to start pointing out all the imperfections... it will work though because I really am happy with the over all look of it.

and Last but not least,,, some Fabric LOVE

I know I say it all the time, but IS ABSOLUTELY STUNNING, and its not so much the print but the colors will make the people over at Pantone very happy. Is a rayon crepe that feels so good. I am thinking, something simple that I can have for all time and maybe that simple fix will be S2938 view A or maybe not we will see I need a simple project for this week.

so more later....

M5522 and S2925 first draft

So this is how it went down this weekend. When I wasn't cleaning and running around doing errands and back and forth from the laundry, I was sewing muslins, OMG, I can totally have a bitch fit right now but I'm not going there,,, mind my vocabulary.

Something Positive first.

I wasn't going to post this but I need to think happy thoughts right now, this shirt pattern is awesome.

I got it last year but when Pirouette post the ones she made it reminded me of it. I was in Banana Republic and notice that they had some white shirts made out of Pima cotton, so soft,,,,,, so EXPENSIVE, I honestly was going to slam down the CC for the shirt because the texture was unbelievable. I almost did it, but something told me to wait.

Now,,, just for the record, that little voice that tells me NOT TO BUY something, is Always on vacation, so I really don't know what happened there but all I can say is Thank you Jesus, but a week later I found some Pima cotton (97% cotton/3% Lycra) for my shirt.

No Mods.............................................. yeah,, I know, I know, for me that is just outstanding.

I have two things in mind for it, a Capri pant, made out of that fabric that looks like black or dark Grey depending on how you look at it and a high waisted black skirt to wear tomorrow,  I am still pondering this.

Next thing

S2925 Muslin.

After much deliberation, I decided to make View C with View A length. After I worked on my skirt muslin for like 3 hours, I figure I needed to something more rewarding.

Well.... at least that was the plan. Do you see all those markings on the side?

Lets see:

Made size 14

Neckline is good

Upper back is good

Needs an FBA (full bust adjustment)

Need more width for raglan sleeves to tight on upper arm

1 inch sway back adjustment

2 inches of ease on hip line,,, could work but need more wiggle room

hence why my feet are in my foot spa and I am sipping wine and venting on my blog.

hmmmm,  more later!

M5587: One Summer Essential (Trend: High Shine metal embellishments)

I enjoy reading articles in the Fashion magazines where they send an assistant to go get the buzz on the streets. Last year around this time, I was reading Lucky and they asked a few women in different metropolitan cities... What is your favorite,, must have, summer essential?

Ah.... so, you could imagine how that played out, they talked about bags, shoes, cotton tees and no surprise.....

Good Old Classic "American Casual", the denim blue jeans and white shirt.

This time around I decided to update this "classic look" with some simple but high shine silver buttons which are becoming a trend by itself.

The pattern called for 3/8 inch buttons but seeing that the placket was wider enough I substitute those for 5/8 inch. I wanted a bolder look.

Ultra Casual

 

or Glammed up a bit

More details

 

 

Let's see

I went down a size from my actual bust measurements on the pattern envelope, its a big shirt and they are not playing and nothing else,, its an easy shirt, I made it on Saturday and finished the button holes and buttons yesterday morning.

and this NO buying knits diet thing,,, well, its going pretty good, its been a week and I'm not going crazy as yet, but then again, I've been quite busy, lol

take care...

M5378: Shirtdress 2 Intro

So......

I finished my mccalls shirt today,,, well, more like this morning, its in the dryer so no photos yet,,, BUT, I'm loving it, what a joy to sew, I can make 10 of them but I only need one. Once its pressed out I will take some photos and all that good stuff.

so what now?

Well, my new project.

Shirt dress No 2.

I'm really loving the fact that there are so many silhouettes and versions of shirt dress out there for this season through fall, so I have a lot to work with. This pattern I've had for a while and I want to make view A. I am going to work on the muslin tonight. I'm usually a size smaller than recommended for mccalls but I don't want to chance it.........

why?

because of my fabric of course

Gosh can you stand it?

Look at that orange,, the pink,, and I'm not a pink person per say,, I can only do certain pinks but honey, this will HAVE TO WORK on me.

This piece I got from Fashionista Fabric, its cotton sateen and its ten times more beautiful in person,, I know,, unbelievable right?

Gosh,, let me tell you how sick I will be if I mess this one up,, SICK and I will not be able to blog for a whole month, lol

I'm thinking covered buttons or maybe gold,, hmm, but I'm not sure of which thread color to use, so I will do some samples and post them, you guys can help me decide,,, K?

be well!