What a difference a year makes.
When I posted about Colette Dinnagan’s Spring 2013 collection last March, it seems like her “woman” was more prim, more conservative. Now, her new muse is absolutely more revealing.
The collection starts off very constraint and gets more “loose” or should I say “sexy”?
Is this maturity or just showing an alter ego?
No idea, but as a whole, I think the details stand out, the actual garments, well, you be the judge….
I like this little lace tee, a silhouette that was seen in so many spring collections.
This is the back of the dress:
On the flip side to that, the sequins on this dress reminds me of the burberry spring collection English rose motifs, coincidence?
I like the back of the swing jacket with the inverted box pleat.
More evidence of the 3-D flowers as shown just recently in the Christian Siriano collection.
I was intrigued by the color combo most of all. The red flowers on this blue just pops but once again, is it pretty or gaudy?
I can’t help but think, it’s a perfectly good dress, lovely center pleating at the waistline, high neckline, fit and flare silhouette, but is the flowers to much?
This bright two tone blue ruffle dress made me squint.
I was looking at the cut out at the waistline thinking, is it just me or that bodice doesn’t fit correctly, looks like its gaping.
and the back:
I like the two tone coloring, don’t know about the rest of it.
She also did some slip dresses which is trending this year.
A closeup of this dress shows how beautiful the beading is on the bodice and the incredible lace fabric used.
The beading on this one is pretty as well and I love the colors she used for the sequin embellishment.
But yet again, I don’t know about the tie-ties on the shoulder though, this reminds me of those Bath towel dresses.
Well, I guess a very expensive bedazzelled "towel dress"!
After she did this collection, she announced that she was closing her main line and I can see the vast difference between last year's and this one, so I wonder how much effort went into this collection at all.
Looking through the garments by Clover Canyon in their spring collection is an excercise on what to do with a busy print. My general rule is busy print = simple design lines and they do just that, keeping the focus on the great artwork in classic silhouettes.
Let's take a look:-
Design theme: Southern California architecture
Inspiration: Bertoia-esque warped grids, torqued dots inspired by Gehry’s music hall in L.A., half tone dots redolent of Lichtenstein canvases and color bars that nod at the neon resins and Lucite sculptures of Larry Bell and John McCracken.
I like the fringe on the cuff of the coat in the first photo.
Needless to say, its all about the prints and they are fantastic. There is a combination of stripes, florals, landscape, grid lines and dots and so well done.
Some collections look much better on video and Christian Siriano's Spring 2014 collection is one of them.
His inspiration was his vacation in Mexico - Isla Mujeres - The Island of Women, where he was inspired by textures he saw on his vacation.
I just adore eyelet jacket and high waist flounce skirt. I like that he lined it. Even though I admired the Burberry spring collection, they didn't line any of their lace skirts on the runway and I like that Christian Siriano did.
I like the textured fabric that looks like a floral pattern lace. At first I thought it was a cap sleeve dress over a white tee but its a whole dress.
I thought the piping that is made out of the floral print was a nice take on the contrast trim detail trend.
When I said that simplicity surprised me with the use of their choice of fabric for simplicity 1425, that was because I saw a lot of these sheer contrast tops on the spring runway.
The dress on the left remains me of vogue 1373, the color they used on the model's skin tone looks great. I thought this caplet effect on this dress looks, I like the mixed pairing of this zig zag raffia print with the basic black and white stripe.
This is one of the garments that looked amazing in movement. I would sure of the volume of the sleeves but once I saw how great they looked when the model worked, it gave me a different prospective on the design. The skirt is very beautiful as well, the diagonal zig zag raffia print is flattering with the sexy slit on the side. This print is so gorgeous, I would love to find something similar.
We got a little peek of how the peplum is lined, very nice!
Fringe - This is something I probably won't wear but I loved how it looked on the runway, so glamourous. I think the color just beamed and I love the movement the fringe created as the model walked. The fringe is so light, its like the look of fur for warmer climates.
The first sign of the 3-D flower embellishments that were also popular on the spring 2014 runway. In this instance, they cut out the flowers in the main fabric and used it as applique on the flowers of the print to give it dimension.
A lot of fashion writer's wrote about how the overall look of these 3-D flower applique look, is it chic or is it gaudy?
I see both agruments because too much of anything is never good. However, I think its beautiful done right, its something that hasn't been prolific in design for years and think its time for another run, can't wait to see the trickle down effect.
Its finally March, gosh I hope it gets warm soon, but its time to look at the fashion trends for the month.
Starting of with Harper's Bazaar accessories.
All of us that own an emerald bag say "I"....... crickets?
Well, you are in good company, an emerald bag is definitely a unique purchase, I like the idea of faux emerald jewelry better.
Python, now here is something to get behind.
Its everywhere, I think every major fashion magazine wrote about this pinkish nude as a trend for spring.
More fringe, I like the pair of sandals they show in this collage, very edgy.
This week I saw an advertisement in a tradeshow pamphlet about Yoana Baraschi, so I decided to check out her spring 2014 collection.
Looking at the layout of the collection, I immediately thought about wardrobe planning, there are lots of separates which can easily mix and match with each other.
Also timeless pieces for instance this military style jacket and shirt. The flare skirt is also a classic piece even though it is of the moment right now.
The dress doesn't look to appealing on the model huh?
I love this whole look, how cute this jacket and top would be with a tan or black leather pencil skirt?
Loving the ombre lace print on this suit, where can I find some of this fabric?
It’s been a long time.
I haven’t gone snoop shopping since last year, end of summer.
Yesterday, I decided to stop in Marshalls to see what I would find.
Once I got into the store, I know something was going on, a bunch of women were gathered in the back of the clothing section, feverishly going through the racks, so I decided to join in.
As soon as I got closer, I figured out what was up. Marshalls just got in last year’s summer designer contemporary dresses from brands like Calvin Klein, Michael by Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren to name a few.
I had seen those dresses in Macys for around $150 and up and here they were all priced at 39.99, these women knew they were getting a deal.
Before I turned my attention to those dresses, I spotted this jacket from Laundry by Shelli Segal.
I always pay attention to cotton blend jackets because there is a trend with garment manufacturers lately is to omit the lining.
This jacket is only lined in the front. The back is finished with bias binding and so well made.
I wonder why they choose to line the front only?
Linings add structure to garments but they also “hide” seams, zipper tapes and pockets so you don’t have to “finish” them as well.
I moved on to the next garment which was this silky button down shirt from Michael by Michael Kors.
Its so interesting how this one is applied.
One side is enclosed by stitching it to the top of the pocket (forming a seam) and the other side is stitched flat to the shirt fabric above the pocket.
This sporty ponte knit dress is by Kenneth Cole, a strip of bias binding was used to stabilize the armhole.
I have to try this next time I make a sleeveless knit dress.
The same treatment was used for the neckline and they used the bias binding as design detail on the exposed zipper.
This dress is from Michael by Michael Kors, I liked how the zipper was used as epaulettes. The sleeve is ruched with elastic before the exposed zipper is attached over it. This is a cute detail for a knit sheath dress or a simple T shirt.
The last thing that caught my eye was this sweater dress from Calvin Klein. The chain detail along the neckline is very Chanel!
V1389 came to mine because of the neckline but I can see this added to any sweater pattern to give it some added appeal
I also stopped in Old Navy, to see their new spring line.
Lots of Nautical and a splash of camo.
I saw this display of wrap dresses and it immediately caught my eye.
Great display by the way, stripe, brights and denim, sounds like the spring trends to me.
Wrap dresses are always trending and as you know, I just included the latest Mccalls pattern to my winter/spring transition capsule.
So seeing this, gave me instant mojo to start working on it.
A cobalt blue wrap dress for summer, hmmm, should I?
Last weekend, I was watching a couple of keynotes from a few Trend Forecasting companies for Spring 2015 and one highlight of each keynote was Denim.
You may look at Denim and think, what else can be done to it, but you will be amazed to find out how much research goes into your jeans.
Just to put a couple thoughts out there:
Peformance Denim - this is the category of denim that is made to endure abnormal wearing conditions, for instance, Kurabo Denim (Japan) carries jeans that creates warmth. Yes, I kid you not!
The fabric is made of 81% Cotton, 11% Acrylic, 7%Cupra, 1% Spandex.
There is also a denim called Storm Denim from Cotton Inc, that has water repellent protection from rain and snow. Perfect for spring weather.
I will stop here because I can go on forever.
This video will take you to Mexico where they will show you how cotton is harvested all the way to the last part of the process - distressing the denim.
First of all, giving credit where credit is due, I like that Threads Magazine offer their magazines/books in digital form.
The reason why I stopped buying sewing magazines and books a few years ago, was due to the fact that I didn't have enough room to store them.
I would go through the book/magazine and eventually they would end up in a box in the basement. This way I can have them all on my hard drive and it makes it easier for me to ACTUALLY reference them.
Truly, I have gone on many a fitting journey with patterns for example:
Muslins are never a bad idea!
That being said, what is so good about this magazine, well lets take a look:
A very good place to start and obviously it is a frequently asked question because it is first on the chopping block. They show how to length a straight, A-line and tapered skirt. The tapered skirt caught me of guard, good to know.
They also gave you a link to Susan Lazear’s printable measurement chart, it’s a free download.
Next is Measuring it Right, where they gave you 35 points of measurement to take for your body with photos. I think this was worth price of the whole magazine. It may be too overwhelming for a beginner but for anyone who is serious about getting their fit game on, definitely worth looking at.
Measuring and marking notions is just that, a list with photos of 22 sewing tools for fitting with online resources.
Does your pattern Fit? Before cutting check your pattern’s measurements against your own.
This section is about HOW to compare key measurements (illustrated in magazine) against your pattern so you can make the initial adjustments (length or wearing ease) before sewing the muslin.
With a gentle reminder that patterns are not meant to FIT straight out of the package.
They show how to calculate the wearing ease and the recommended wearing ease a pattern should have.
I modify my patterns all the time and I usually have to make a note of where I need to remember to subject ease by folding darts, tucks or subtracting seams before I measure the pattern pieces for width. In addition, I also have to do the same when subtracting seams and hemline allowance to check for enough length. They are also specific pant measurement in this section.
Fit for everyone – sewing removable covers to make your dress form work for multiple figures.
In this section Kenneth D. King shows how to transform your dress form into a true body double with a removable cover or stuffed bodice.
This is cool, I would love to make one. In fact, while I was reading it, I could already imagine the jokes my family would be making, watching me stuff the butt of the cover.
LOL, oh boy, do I really want to open that can of worms, hahaha!
And playing with that fusible padding would be fun!
Muslin Refined - a couture method leads to exquisite garments by Susan Khalje.
For the more patient amongst us.
It was enlightening for me and let me tell you, I have a lot of respect for anyone who makes a muslin using this method.
I remember watching an interview where a designer talked about his internship at a couture house, he was the person that “passed the pins”. No stitching, just pin after pin to drape the garment on the model. Maybe I will afford myself this self indulgence when I retire…
Smart fitting – how to identify the fitting issues, how to fix it on the muslin and then how to mark the muslin and pattern. The concentration of this section is the arms and back.
When I saw this photo of the sleeve drag lines, I immediately thought about the problem I had with Mccalls 6355. I ended up chopping it off but if I had done a muslin I would have been able to adjust the pattern. Drag lines are a visual clue that a certain part of the pattern may need to be adjusted when you are fitting, it really is up to your whether you want to fix it or live with it.
Fine-Tune the Tissue by Marcy Tilton.
I would say this one would probably be my least used section. I think tissue fit is great but I am very clumsy with manipulating the pattern pieces and I don’t think I judge the fit accurately; making a muslin is the next best thing for me, if I don’t think my flat pattern measurements are going to cut it.
This section is very thorough, they take you through how to pin and check the major points of fit so if you are interested in this, I think it’s worth taking a look.
The best custom pants – where they walk you through how to draft your own pants, my mom would love this!
I will not lie, drafting a pattern from scratch is not really my cup of tea but I find it very intriguing, I like that it was included in the issue.
The Focused Fitting section is my favorite section, I have big plans for this.
They start off with the getting good fit at the shoulders by diagnosing the shoulder slope fitting problems, finding your shoulder slope and how to adjust different types of sleeves to correct the shoulder slope.
Next sections are:
How to get the perfect armhole, making the perfect sleeve and adding bust darts.
How to fit a full stomach.
How to scale down a pattern, which are your petite adjustments.
If you are reading this review thinking, “WOW, that is a lot of stuff, my mind is totally BLOWN”, yes, it is.
I got my copy on sale and I’m very happy I did because while reading through the issue with the intention to write this review I realized how much great information it has in it.
Information, I would have over looked if I was just flipping through it at Joann’s.
And this maybe the only downside to the issue, so much information.
But I hope this review will help you decide if you need it.
Did I need it?
Yes, but I always need more info on fitting, it’s my Achilles Heel.
If you need it…. is really up to you.
The Josie Natori Collection was one of the first collections I saw back in September 2013, NYFW and I instantly loved it.
She chose to reference the 1930s style V necklines using lots of textured fabrics, asymmetric cuts and flowing silhouettes.
I like how the princess seams turn into these "double pleats" at the waistline and how the mirror belt was used to bring the attention towards this detail.
I would love to see how long that side zipper is on the side seam.
Its so interesting what you can get away with when working with a head to toe monochromatic palette. This outfit has a lot of volume, yet it "flows" so well on the model.
Is it because of the asymmetric gathers that draws the eye into one side of the body?
This sweater, wow, love the color, this metallic gold/beige in this basketweave knit is timeless. I wrote about getting the look of a crop top without actually wearing one and this is a fun way to do it.
Put the sweater inside a high waist skirt.
I really love this dress, this is how I like my "vintage", retro design lines in modern fabrics.
I like the softness of the dolman sleeve and how the sheen just bounce of the surface of the fabric. I would love to get my hands on this fabric.
Where can I find a pattern for this top?
Isn't it stunning!
I love the oversized collar, the lantern style sleeves, the huge cummerbund effect at the waistline and where the top hits at the hipline.
Asymmetric hemlines and now you know where the inspiration for my luxe sweat shirt Vogue 8952 came from.
(Left) I like this overall look, very edgy with the clean black and white separates with the "blousey", comfortable vibe to it; (center) I love the mesh fabric used for the top with the simple V neckline and cap sleeves; (Right) I thought this Chervon print was so interesting, you probably didn't notice it was chervon right?
Resort style dresses
I was looking at the styling on the blue dress, just a huge stack of oversized bracelets which seems to be a trend in this collection. The look of jewelry is definitely Phillipino inspired (Josie Natori's place of birth).
Just something to think about....