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EOM Gnaoua MFes: M5661 & S4236

He said, "an individual can improve her style, but it is better to be born with it"

Karl Lagerfeld

hmmm, maybe so, maybe not....

Are you ready?

Fastforward to Phase 2, as I talked about previously, GMfes is all about going out on the town, a step up above jeans and tees.

I had to include looks for "later events" but my lifestyle right now doesn't require anything too formal, so my dilemma in finding something that can be dressed up and dressed down had to be solved.

I figure I can wear the skirt with a white shirt to work, or the top with some tan pants or whatever.. so many possibilities, don't even get me started.

S4236

Revisited, this time I added a yoke which I self drafted, once you have sewn a few skirts, a yoke is ridiculously easy to make with your waist measurements and totally winging it, trust me.

The piping was a first time for me and I did it with a regular zipper foot, surprisingly easy. Remember my inspiration for this skirt?

I stopped in Ann taylor to check it out, looked simple enough so I knew what I had to do to get the look.

To mimic the topstitching I used a twin needle, the seams are in between the twin needle stitching, looks pretty cool and it was super quick without using an edge stitching foot.

The invisible zipper is on the side.

M5661

Previous photos here

Well, I knew this was going to be a special project when the fabric came.

I got it from Waechter's Silk Shop,,, such good quality and great presentation.

After the Muslin was made I had to add the FBA (1/2 inch) and shorten the blouse.

Now this is where I must say.. clearly I don't make a muslin for everything but I had an instinct about this blouse and thank goodness I did, because I would have never known I had to "shorten" it, I have never shorten any of my patterns and as Belinda pointed out, I should be because I have a short torso,,,,, okay,,, I have a short torso?

So,, you mean to tell me all this time I never realized I have a short torso area,, sheesh, oh well, what is done is done, moving forward i will take this into consideration.

This pattern was very helpful, once I figured out what was wrong I could look at the pattern and know exactly where to add (FBA and hip) and where to take away (sway back and length). The instructions are awesome for construction and it was very easy to adjust for the zipper (fold in the placket and add seam allowance for the zipper.

Oh the sleeves, can't forget this.

You know I always talk about adjusting my sleeves, these fit just right, which leads me to believe that it may be bigger on a person that use there sleeves straight out of the pattern,, hint, hint.

and let me tell you,, if you ever want to work on your patience skills,, wash silk cotton,,,, then iron it, this piece has much more silk than cotton in it and boy..... did it wrinkle something fierce.

If you don't say a bad word or two, you are NOT normal, lol

I know the back photo doesn't really show the fit of the blouse because its tucked in, but it fit well, I will post a better photo of just the blouse in the back later.

Hey Tany,, guess what I got?

My dh must have picked it up because it was on my ironing board when I got home this afternoon..... this is going to join me on the couch in a few, How fabulous are you?

Very

and I have to hook you up girl,,, soon!

Enough,, is enough

you know there is always more.

EOM Jet set: Simplicity 2892 (e) Embossed Cotton tunic

She said, "...getting around the main cities in Morocco using local taxis can be a huge hassel, its better to take the train if you can, better to just rent a car if your stay is short. Learn some basic Arabic or French and dress comfortably, it can get really hot and that makes getting around even more frustrating..."

                                                                                            -excerpt from a Travel Message board

So, maybe you are a Short Distance Traveller, someone who's idea of a get-away is not travelling 22 hours to middle earth but more like 2 hours to an outlet mall or fabric store. lol

Which is more my speed and for that I like my dark denim jeans and white tops, yes, I wear a ton of white with blue jeans in the summer its like a uniform around here.

This top took me two days, I am so serious, I would have bet that this would have been an easy sew project but there was a lot of handstitching involved.

For the Yoke, which is the top piece, you need 6 pieces; back and front yoke, lining and ruffle and all of these have to be gathered, baste, machine stitched and then hemmed down by hand, you will definitely get the couture experience with this one if you want it to look good.

But the directions are good.

I made this out of an embossed cotton I got from Joanns last year, my inspiration was

This is Jcew's Deco Dot Zoey Dress that is made out of embossed cotton also. I'm sure they would have a fit to know my fabric cost 5 bucks for 3 yards, lol

But I didn't really wanted a dress, so when I saw simplicity 2892, I figured I could make a lining that would be a little longer to use up most of the 3 yds I had. Its a little longer than I wear my tops but it works well for my low rider jeans, to keep me crack free!

This top is like a knit, in that you can't iron it so its basically wash and wear which is awesome for vacations, we were talking about having those tops that we can wash out in the hotel and through over the shower curtain to dry.. lol, woo hoo, the stories I can tell.

And I used French seams,, oh at least that is what I think it is, because the fabric is sheer enough that you would see the serging below and light enough so that the seam finish would not look bulky.

more photos here

and one more close up

so hopefully next time I can get some photos of my butterick jacket on, I think I'm going to wear it to work sometime this week.

Moving on,,, remember my fabric for 06-2008-107 well, I'm almost done, it was a really quick sew, now I am soliciting ideas for a color that would work best for the bottom,,, let me know what you think.

S2925: Gathered front tunic

Finally some photos,crap, I should be seriously cleaning, lol

This morning I dragged Devin out of bed to take some photos of me in my tunic.

  

Sorry about the huge pic, typepad is pixilizing my photos so its looking really funky when I try to upload them at a reduced size. Oh maybe its my camera, I have to figure it out.

Anyway, This is the second time I am wearing this tunic, the first time I wore it with some white legging that has side ruching up by the knee with some white flats to go shopping with Dad.

I love it, its one of those things where I have to say "NO, I am not going to wear you today", lol

Remember this

well it was a long journey to what you see now.

First, I had to do a FBA (full bust adjustment)

This was weird, I have never done a FBA before, maybe I do need to do it, but I have never had a pattern that absolutely had to get it for it to fit right. But once I noticed that the back was fitting right but the front was to tight, something had to give. I used the FBA method from the book Fit for real people.

I also added an inch to the raglan pieces, after reading "the perfect fit" the only adjustment for raglan sleeves in there, so I used that, it was fitting to snug at my arms but I have big arms so its something I always check for anyway.

The main body is lined

with a baby blue batiste but not connected to the facing and its free hanging in the bottom, the batiste is softer than the actual fabric so I'm glad I lined it.

Gosh,, broken record here, but I really love this fabric, I know I said it before but it TOTALLY sucks you in, I was with my manager today talking and she stopped mid sentence and just to tell me, she couldn't stop looking at the print because the color is just so stunning.

hmmm, I am bitter sweet about this comment, I usually don't like my clothes to wear me, instead of me wearing it, but anyway, a compliment is a compliment I guess, lol

well ladies, just wanted to share this one before I totally forget about it, and yes I will continue to wear it to death to the end of summer.

always, more later, stay good!

She's so pique-cular collection: Set 3 Pool Party and Recap

I made pants, I made pants everyone.. YAY!

LoL, remind me to take the photo before I go out and not after, woo hoo,, tired..

Okay...

Well it was bound to happen eventually , I couldn't really do a spring into summer collection without some shorts now can I?

I'm a true dark denim blue jeans kind of girl. I'm not adventurous when it comes to pants at all. I love them dark and bootcut.

But lately... which is due to all the magazines that have been sucking up my lunch breaks...I've been feeling the urge to get into some shorts.

That being said

Tell me, when did a good fitting pair of shorts become so hard to find?

Okay,, so clearly that is a general statement.

I should say, I absolutely couldn't find my Perfect Shorts anywhere.

My Perfect Shorts is straight leg with no tapering, I have to much hips for that, just regular straight leg will work fine for me.

I would also love them to fit the waist, hip and butt comfortably, which is like a myth with my proportions.

The fact that I couldn't find one had all the things going on at the same time became my inspiration for finding and adding a pair of shorts to my collection.

My Interpretation

For this set, I decided to use S2894 view E and BWOF 02-2008-123.

The Shorts.

My initial plans were to make this short in a white pique and use it  with the simplicity 2896 jacket as a set and use it with the other
pieces in this collection

BUT!

Seeing that the jacket plans got cancelled I decided to make it out of Black pique, a piece I had reserved for M5594 but lost the mojo for it. I need to work it out of my stash.

I made a muslin and two things I want to make note of… if you don't know you size in simplicity for pants, please make a muslin, you may want to check for the crotch depth because the yoke is very high. Don't say I didn't worn you!

I lowered the crotch by an inch and still took off and inch off the lenght of the waistband. I cut out a size 18 and added ease for my hipline after I matched up to the measurements from a Capri I have at home here that I like the fit off.

I hemmed this pant on hand, I didn't like the look of the machine hem once I started to do it. About from that, its great I love them and they are so comfortable, I will make another one in white for sure,, maybe white cotton twill.

The Top

Wow, this was a long time coming. When I got the February issue of BWOF, I traced out this pattern that day. I knew I wanted it but I didn't see any print in a knit that will work…..until I saw this one. I couldn't be more happy, check it out. It has:

Grey

Khaki

White

Black

Brown

Basically every neutral I would ever want to wear with it and of course I can do good old denim with it. I sewn it up one afternoon after work, no problems. You know I had to put in a fun printed knit in there somewhere.

Now for the Recap

The Plan: Three sets of garments using a spring/summer color palette for daytime events

 

The Result

Set One: Tea Party

Set Two: Garden Party

Set Three: Pool party 

Pecular tidbit

I am a Lint Brush a holic.

I have them everywhere and I lint off everything. I don't know when this obsession started but I am not alone, lol.

I guess when you sew, thread gets on everything, I mean, even if it just got off the sewing machine it shouldn't have to LOOK like it just got off the sewing machine right?

Okay, so I know, this post is very long and drawn out but I will not be posting for a little while, my MIL will be in town for about 2 weeks so that equals no sewing for me.

So what's Next?

My Full summer wardrobe collection, its called Essaouria of Morocco,, yeah,, good stuff!

 

 

S3506: I didn't lose weight its the dress

SHE SAID, "OMG, you look like you lost weight, did you do that 4 day fat flush diet?"

No honey, its the dress

I noticed it too, it took a few hours but when I threw it over my head,no need to insert a zip, I looked myself in the mirror and was quite amazed, it really gives a "slender" look and so easy to put together. After my sway back adjustment, I didn't have to do anything else.

My mom calls this type of dress, the "three hole dress", it was the first dress she learned how to make when she was learning to sew and to this day, she swears it the most flattering look for a little black dress, lol.

Well, I say, its good to go in brown and aqua too.

I'm making one just for the 7th of July.

more later.

She's so Pique-cular Collection: Set 2 Garden Party

SHE SAID: You have to do it your way, even with implementing good advice, it has to be on your terms. Its the only way to be truly happy with your final decisions.

The Party continues.....

For my collection I wanted to do two sets for day events which was casual to semi formal  like a christening, baby shower etc. I figure the skirt sets would be appropriate with lots of personality.. people tend to comment on anything that is bright and festive for the summer so its good for getting the conversation going.

Set 2: Garden Party

The Top: Vogue 2980

 

This is seriously going to be my profile pic,,, watch!

Okay

Its simple, easy and I love it. I want 10 of them,, in every color, I couldn't believe how easy this was to make.
I went down a size after I did a flat pattern measurement. I figure the stretch will compensate for ease. I highly recommend a rayon jersey for it. The sleeves, bolero/shrug piece are doubled and the front piece has a fold on the bust area until under the arm area. The shrug itself has so pleats so give it shaping.
with nothing else to say I will show you some close up photos.

The double sleeve

Close up of Pleat of shrug

Side view of Upper back

The Skirt: Simplicity 4236 (8 panel Gore Modification)

I made 8 godets, by drawing a cone, enlarging it, then grade it down to wear I thought looked about right. I positioned the godet where I wanted it to start and cut of the excess.

I decided to do an invisible zipper on this one because it would blend with the godets better, I guess I will be working on that technique on something else.

And you won't believe after the skirt was done, I got an email about how to get the "look" of SC's tulip skirt which was my inspiration, so I will looking in to that as a self drafted project in my next collection.

I added a soft crease to the godets to give it some definition seeing that the pique has stretch and heavy, the godets did to flow into the shape of the skirt unnoticed.

and one more

YAY!!!

Peculiar Tidbit

I became a vegetarian when I was 14.

I just got up and decided to do it, like most of my major life changes, lol. When I went to Marine Corp Boot camp at 19, I got really sick and the doctors told me if I didn't try to get my protein via poultry or meat, I would not be able to complete training. So, I started back to eat animal products because I just didn't want to fluke out of boot camp or endanger myself trying to prove a point.

It beautiful here in Philly, perfect weather for the "the start of Summer"

Happy Memorial Day everyone, please take some time to reflect on the reason for the holiday

and happy sewing, I am working on SET THREE right now, more later.

She's so pique-culiar Collection: Set One

WOW,, thanks for all the comments on my dress everyone, I am planning on making another sheath style dress now that see it works for me,, more on this later.

Okay...

I decided to do something interesting for Lulu's tag.

So for each Collection related post I will also have a "peculiar tidbit" about myself at the end.

When I saw Sara Campbell's show on QVC a few weeks ago, I was really impressed, I recorded and watched it over and over again until my dh deleted by "accident"..... yeah right!

Seeing that Sara used Pique so much in her collection,when I found some cute pique to make my skirts, I decided to do a collection featuring sets which would include one or more thing made with pique.

Set One: At the Tea Party

Cute and comfortable, if you ever wanted to prove your feminine side, nothing says it louder than pink, florals and a tie bow.

Obviously I didn't make a knock off of this dress, lol

What I took from it is the main color, Pink, the full skirt for the bottom piece, the bow on the side in the form of the tie bow on the top and short cap style sleeves.

The Interpretation

The Skirt

can be found here

The Top

I used BWOF 05-2008-103 with Sleeves from 05-2008-116. Its on the same page for it wasn't a hassle. I used a medium weight white jersey and a lighter weight for the lining.

I had some problems with the drape, when I sewn up the sides it drooped, so I had to pull it taut and restitch it on the (big side) and the little side, the front piece had to much excess so I had cut off some of the excess for it. I will say this must be due to my hip and waist, my waist is much smaller than my hip so I'm thinking I had to much ease at the waistline that made the drape, droop and then the opposite for my hip.

The Neckline is very low, I may even have to wear a very thin Cami under it because I didn't raise the neckline, which I should have because i know BWOF is not really into modesty, lol.

I won't recommend lengthening it if you are not compensating for your height. Its very generous if you make sure to add your hem Allowance.

Apart from that, I should have done a SBA, I didn't even think about it until it was done.

So Photos.

Tie Bow

Back

Inside Front

   

lining

Peculiar Tidbit: I once hypnotize myself to sleep to excape from watching a scary movie.

Yep, I can do the fastest, steepest, rolla-coasters but absolutely no scary movies, I've always been terrified of them. My dh, friend and I went to see Texas Chainsaw Massacre.... I was bullied into it.... and five minutes into the movie I couldn't take it any more. A few months before I got hypnotized at a conference for my job and it worked so I redid everything I could remember the doctor doing to me... next thing I knew, my dh was waking me up. Looking at me incredulously, he said, "I can't believe you fell asleep on the movie",,,,,, imagine the shock on my face. I said after recalling what happened, "I can't believe it either." Let me tell you, it was one of the best naps I've ever had.

I'm already working on Set two, can't wait to show you!

S2938: A Sheath that Flatters (Trend: Bold Colored Floral Dresses)

This is how I get my dose of yellow in.

And Lulu, I know you tagged me a long time ago but I didn't see it until yesterday,, maybe too late?

Anyway

When I saw Hana, I immediately purchased it, even though this multicolored bold print was not in my comfort zone. My Instinct told me, Just get it and we will figure it out later.

When it arrived home, I was flabbergasted, this print was jaw droppingly stunning and I knew I had to find a simple pattern so the print could do all the work.

I don't do sheath dresses, I am very very cautious with straight cut and I don't care to have my arms out either,,,,, yet I chose S2938.

My First Dilemma was identifying how to insert the zipper, it didn't make since to me... so.... I emailed Tany about it. She concluded that it was a side zipper but advised me that putting an invisible side zipper on a curve (waist to hip) can be tricky to get it to lay flat so moving it to the back might be easier for me.

You know I'm not afraid to modify my patterns right? The idea seemed like a nice challenge.

But!

After my usual adjustment, sway back, etc. I decided to omit the zipper all together. With No sleeves and being custom made to my measurements it was easy to just slip it on without adding closures.

I graded out the pattern at the hip line for hip ease (I made a 14) and to give it a more A line silhouette.

And I lined it with Ivory Batiste...... the stars definitely aligned for this one...

or did it?

This is a rayon crepe and I find that the batiste is clinging to it like has been zapped with static energy. It doesn't look bad, you wouldn't notice it but I can feel it. In the future, I will try something else.
As for maniulation of the actual fabric, well, its not as slippery as a satin but it will "dance" if you donn't man handle it. It recovers from ripping out stitches "OKAY",,,, you may have to press those wholes out because I did.

As you can see, I accessorized with black, not to tone it down but to make the dress stand out even more. I have to make the sash,,,,, but I doubt I'll ever use it, I think pulling out colors in the dress like the red for a rtw belt will look much better.

I already started to work on 05-2008-103 last night, and I had to put it down because I already have to adjust some things so it can fit better.

Apart from that, I'm sending you positive sewing vibes for the weekend in hope of posting my own Finished Garments on Sunday afternoon.

S4236: Details

I am such a GIRL

As I wrote before, I am NOT a Pink person, I love blue, but I don't know what is going on
with me right now.
I am fighting this urge though, when I picked up some knits last week,I made sure to re-establish my favorite color for my summer wardrobe, but more on this later.

Last weekend, I was shopping  on Pitkin Ave in Brooklyn and I can tell you, I was highly inspired.So many ruffle front sheer tops, full skirts, patent flats and wedges and diagonally striped pumps in nautical colors.... I kid you NOT and I had to stop myself from getting the navy and white ones.

Anyway..all I'm trying to say is that I'm loving it all, the "full" silhouettes are great for my body type.

So, more on my Skirt from yesterday's post.

Well, I already shared my inspiration for this one, I stuck to the basic construction, except for the lapped zipper, which was a first time attempt for me. I will have to improve this skill because it took a few attempts to get it where I felt it was pass-able.

I did a none yoke version which hits about 1.5 below the waistline (the pattern recommended 1 inch) but kept the top-stitching on each seam. I loved this feature because the seams get lost in the print and it helped to show up the seams a bit more than it would have without it.

Oh,, and no pockets, its not that I don't like them or can't make them, its just that they stick out on my hips and look very unflattering. This is a constant dilemma for me but at the end of the day, it doesn't really matter how much you want something to work for you, if it doesn't, you just have to go without it.

Its a simple pattern, which meant I could have fun with it. Lately I've been getting the urge to do more experimenting, there is something so exciting about altering a pattern and seeing that your alterations actually worked out and I learned so much trouble shooting to make it work.

Before I show a couple of photos, I want to also note that I lined the skirt with 100% polyester,,, now, I will allow you to cringe for a few seconds and come back to me...........

I was in Joanns looking for some white Batiste and they didn't have any... in fact, I picked up the bolt of Poly,,,, breathe,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,okay,, and it felt good, very soft so I just got it.

LOL

I'm sure you've seen those movies that feature the white angel on one side and the red devil on the other shoulder acting at the actors conscience.... well, I had that moment when I tried to talk myself out of it because it wasn't cotton,, hmm, a natural fiber. I'm I brainwashed?

Gosh that is a whole other post by itself.

Front View

Close Up

Lapped zipper

Pink grosgrain stay at waistline

Rose brought up the concept of just wearing a slip under the skirt instead of lining it..... that makes a lot of sense seeing that I plan to do more than one, however, I must truthfully say, I chalk up my insistence on having my skirts lined, to vanity.... I want my skirt to look as RTW as possible even though,, chances are, no one will ever see the darn lining. Even though a slip would work just the same.

The Lining

is serged at the edges, this is due to 100% laziness..... plain and simple. Of course, I could have spent the extra time making a machine hem but the serger looked much more appealing at the time. I actually love how it looks like this.

Well, enough rambling

Tomorrow I will post photos of my S2938, I finished yesterday and took some photos to post. I figure it will be a great way to start the weekend by showing another FO. I can hardly wait to show it to you.. can't wait.

more later.

M5522 Modified A, S2925 Progress & Fabric Love

Its an Overcast Sunday Morning on the outskirts of Philly today.

I really didn't get much done in sewing last week but I did finish two things. The first was S2925 which I will review later because I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do with the pockets, as you can see,,, very bland...... so more on this later. Its on my dress form, hopefully it will come to me soon.

Next thing

I made a quick View A of the M5522. I was messing around with the pattern at lunch one day just because I was bored and it looked like something that I can do so I pulled out a piece of light blue cotton which I had stashed for a shirt,,,, a work wardrobe basic that I didn't sew until now.

so here are some photos first

close up

side view

 

lower back view

Likes and Mods

Well, I love the mandarin collar, not quite a full collar but not a round neck, I still get that V neckline going on that really works for me. I wanted the puff sleeves version, part of it was due to my curiosity with the construction, I thought it had a band but its actually a double sleeve concept, the bottom being a "stay" to give it structure.

This I found to be utilized in a lot of high end designer garments and I was really pleased to see it used for a simple shirt like this.

The mods were easy, I made a 1.5 inch band by eliminating this measurement from the lower pieces and just adding that 5/8 inch SA,, basic stuff.

The back has a little surprise, stitched down pin-tucks which I went backward and foreword in how I was actually going to do it, first I thought maybe just do it half way, but I wanted it to look as if it wasn't even there. Going back to the whole illusion thing where you have to really look to see,, "oh, it has something on there"...... makes for good conversation right?

And its not perfect, I can even tell you that the 2nd buttonhole is a little off, if I really wanted to start pointing out all the imperfections... it will work though because I really am happy with the over all look of it.

and Last but not least,,, some Fabric LOVE

I know I say it all the time, but IS ABSOLUTELY STUNNING, and its not so much the print but the colors will make the people over at Pantone very happy. Is a rayon crepe that feels so good. I am thinking, something simple that I can have for all time and maybe that simple fix will be S2938 view A or maybe not we will see I need a simple project for this week.

so more later....